Showing posts with label camel safari. Show all posts
Showing posts with label camel safari. Show all posts

Tuesday, November 11, 2014

Manvar

Monday, 10 November 2014, Manvar

This morning Pati and BeeBee had their last breakfast at the Hotel Pleasant Haveli and set off at 10 am with their driver for their next destination: Manvar. They stopped at the same rest stop as before and had coffee/tea while their driver had a quick breakfast. Shortly after continuing their drive, they passed the turnoff to Phalodi and were happy they weren't headed in that direction again.

At about 1 pm, they arrived at Manvar Resort and Camp and checked in. Their actual room was a tent just a little farther into the Thar desert. They were grouped with an English couple for the drive to the tents. They didn't know it at first, but this drive was the jeep safari. As the ride continued, they began to wonder just how early they would have to get up on Tuesday to get back to the starting point for a 10 am checkout. The jeep safari was 99.9% off-road through scrub and sand. The best parts for Pati and the Englishman were the unexpected rollercoaster-like steep drops down through scrub and dunes. Reminiscent of the Pushkar ferris wheel, there were no seatbelts, just rollbars.

They saw Indian antelope, deer, birds, and the occasional cow. They also visited the home of a local Rajasthani woman and observed her cooking hut, concrete house, lamb pen, and storehouse. The paving on the ground was a mixture of cow manure and mud, dried to the appearance and hardness of concrete. Since the group had taken off their shoes for the visit, this was information that Pati and BeeBee could have done without.  She was preparing dinner. She was dressed in traditional clothing with a veil; she kept her face covered when any of the tour group was near her. As the group was about to leave her cooking hut, where she was at the time, she received a call on her cellphone. She pulled the phone from somewhere inside her costume and took the call. It was a startling juxtaposition of modern with medieval.

The jeep dropped them off at the tent camp, and their luggage arrived an hour later. Pati and BeeBee were in tent #2 and the English couple were in tent #3. There are approximately 40 tents for guests, a large meal tent, and a concrete circle for the night's entertainment, with low cushions set in a semicircle for viewing the entertainment. (This seating is only there in the evenings.)

At 5 pm, Pati and BeeBee, the English couple, and some other campers set off on their camel safari to view the sunset from high sand dunes. Ths time, Pati and BeeBee were both on the same camel, and he had a definite list to one side. For the second time, they held on tight, but this time the trip had more up-and-down to it: more climbing and descending, more drop-offs. Finally at the top, the group of 5 camels and drivers, 9 riders, and 2 small boys enjoyed the sunset. The group returned to camp the same way and arrived before total darkness.

Pati and BeeBee then sat on the terrace beside the meal tent for quality internetting. That's where the signal is strongest. The entertainment of traditional music and dancing began after dark, and the guests were treated to (also traditional) snacks during the performance. The stars overhead were clear and beautiful. Entertainment was followed by a good meal in the tent.  At 9 pm, most of the guests (including Pati and BeeBee) had retired to their tents.

The tent has a light-colored stone tiled  porch about 6' by 14' with steps, a bedroom about 14' square, and a modern permanent bathroom about 6' by 14' with sink, toilet, and shower. The walls of the tent are double canvas, white on the outside and decorated on the inside. The outer door zips shut from either side, and can be rolled up. The bathroom door is a reed hanging plus a canvas door that can be rolled up. There are 4 windows that can be pulled up like roman shades with non-moving screens. There are electric lights and ample outlets. The concrete floor is covered completely by sisal rugs in the bedroom, and by dark stone tile in the bathroom. The furnishings are elegantly simple. This is one of BeeBee's favorite "hotels" so far.

Saturday, November 8, 2014

Jaisalmer - Afternoon of the First Full Day

Saturday, 8 November 2014, Jaisalmer

Pati and BeeBee met with their driver and guide just before 4:30 and started for Sam, where they were to join a camel safari and view the setting sun from sand dunes. Their route to Sam appeared to run north-northwest for about 30 km.  The guide said that they would be about 80 km (48 miles) from the border with Pakistan.

When they arrived in Sam, the guide took them to the camel driver and his assistant (little boy) who would lead their camels.  The camels were already kneeling in the sand. Pati and BeeBee learned how to get on a camel. Throw your right leg over the camel. If  the leg won't go over, have someone grab the ankle and pull it to the other side of the camel. Have that same person push on your - ahem - derrier from the left side until you are squarely seated behind the pommel. Grab the pommel firmly and lean back, because the camel is going to stand up on its hind legs and you don't want to do a header over the pommel. The driver will also be helping you stay in the saddle. Then continue hanging on tightly as the front end of the camel comes up. Then your role is to hang onto the pommel tightly and try not to fall off as the camel rocks along.

With the two camel drivers leading their camels, Pati and BeeBee joined the end of a long line of camels with riders. They rode for about 15 minutes through scrub, coming to the sand dunes as the sun finally broke free of the haze that had hidden it until then. They dismounted at the foot
of a very tall dune and scrambled to the top, where they settled down on the sand to wait for sunset.  Pati got some pictures of the sun about to set, and then the sun disappeared behind the haze again. After a few minutes, they climbed back down the dune and mounted their camels again, a little more efficiently this time. The drivers led their camels to the road where their (automobile) driver and guide waited for them.

After about 30 minutes of driving in the quickly falling darkness, they were back at the hotel.  Pati tipped the guide for his 1 1/2 days of service. BeeBee gave the guide his voucher, so that he could get paid, and wrote a brief review of his work for him. She gave him a good but generic review. He was pleasant, he had followed the itinerary, and his attempts to steer them into unwanted buying opportunities were the result of pressure from his associates, with whom he must remain on good terms. Pati and BeeBee understand this, but do not feel obligated to fall into these traps. Contrary to popular belief, they are not walking ATM machines.

It was agreed with the driver that he and they would have a free day tomorrow. He will pick them up Monday morning at 10 am and they will continue to Manvar to spend the night in a tent. BeeBee does not know where the driver will spend that night.

Pati and BeeBee then went to the hotel's rooftop restaurant to have a delicious dinner. (They would like to try some other restaurants near their hotel, that get good reviews on Trip Advisor, but they are reluctant to walk around outside after dark. The odds of stepping in something unpleasant increase greatly after dark. Maybe tomorrow in the daylight ...)

A welcome delivey to their room: clean laundry! Then internetting and to bed.



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