Friday, 7 November 2014, Jaisalmer
The drive from Phalodi to Jaisalmer was uneventful. About an hour away from Phalodi, the driver asked if Pati and BeeBee would like a rest break, because there wouldn't be another opportunity before Jaisalmer. Pati said yes, as usual, and the driver went on to say that he would have breakfast when we stopped, because (unfortunately for him) he had also spent the night at Lal Liwas (there is no other place in Phalodi for drivers to stay) and they refused to give him any breakfast. He did get a shower. Pati and BeeBee got a quick coke/tea at the restaurant at the stop, and the driver got something to eat somewhere in the same building. He was ready to go in 15 minutes. BeeBee wonders what kind of life drivers have on the road.
They arrived at their hotel (Hotel Pleasant Havali) in Jaisalmer at about 1:30, and were shown to a beautiful room. The bathroom had running water (BeeBee checked immediately). Their walking tour was scheduled for 4 pm, so they went to the rooftop restaurant for a delicious lunch. Here they learned that they could get bottled water free whenever they wanted it, from the restaurant or front desk. The server charged their meal to room 8, which was a bit of news because the rooms do not have numbers. They have keys with unique attachments instead.
At 4:15, they met their guide and driver. The driver took them to the entrance to a lake. As they drove, the guide suggested changes to their itinerary, if they would like. Pati and BeeBee had heard this pitch before (in Shimla), so they said they liked what was in the itinerary and wanted to do that. At the lake, the guide dismissed the driver until 4:30 tomorrow. All of the scheduled touring is on foot until tomorrow afternoon. This lake also has ghats (steps) and beautiful buildings around and in it. The guide told them an amusing story about a prostitute who set up shop beside the lake; her customers were the gypsies who lived on the opposite bank of the lake. She built a small temple on top of her building and ghats, and the king was unable to evict her for that reason. Pati took lots of pictures. Some boys were throwing bits of bread into the lake to feed some giant catfish. People often feed these fish, because they represent a Hindu deity.
They then walked through the neighborhoods between the lake and their hotel, and the guide pointed out the beautiful architecture and fretwork in the local golden sandstone. (Jaisalmer is known as the Golden City.) As they were walking through a narrow street, they came upon a cow standing with its front feet on the top step of a home (back feet on the street), with its nose pressed to the window in the top half of the door. The guide explained that each family at dinner time cooks three extra chipatis: one for the dog, one for the gypsies, and one for the cow. This cow was waiting for its chapati. Another thing that they saw repeatedly was a wedding picture painted on the side of a house where a couple was to be (or had already been) married. It was a picture of Ganesha eating sweets, with the date of the marriage. The words in Rajasthani were an invitation to the wedding events. Their guide bought them each a sweet of the type in the picture (a golden round ball), and they could understand why Ganesh is so fond of this particular sweet.
Their guide is Brahmin, as was their guide in Shimla. Although India has officially done away with the caste system, both of these guides were quick to identify themselves as Brahmin (the highest caste) and to explain the caste system. Apparently, it is everyone else's job to provide for the Brahmin while they sit around and think big thoughts. Pati and BeeBee have seen quite a few Brahmin sitting around so they know that's at least half true.
After their tour, Pati and BeeBee were escorted back to their hotel at about 6:30. They had a small dinner at the rooftop restaurant. They had a wonderful view of the fort on top of the hill, and of the simultaneous sunset and moonrise. They spent the rest of the evening catching up on the internet. (Phalodi had no wifi.)
The drive from Phalodi to Jaisalmer was uneventful. About an hour away from Phalodi, the driver asked if Pati and BeeBee would like a rest break, because there wouldn't be another opportunity before Jaisalmer. Pati said yes, as usual, and the driver went on to say that he would have breakfast when we stopped, because (unfortunately for him) he had also spent the night at Lal Liwas (there is no other place in Phalodi for drivers to stay) and they refused to give him any breakfast. He did get a shower. Pati and BeeBee got a quick coke/tea at the restaurant at the stop, and the driver got something to eat somewhere in the same building. He was ready to go in 15 minutes. BeeBee wonders what kind of life drivers have on the road.
They arrived at their hotel (Hotel Pleasant Havali) in Jaisalmer at about 1:30, and were shown to a beautiful room. The bathroom had running water (BeeBee checked immediately). Their walking tour was scheduled for 4 pm, so they went to the rooftop restaurant for a delicious lunch. Here they learned that they could get bottled water free whenever they wanted it, from the restaurant or front desk. The server charged their meal to room 8, which was a bit of news because the rooms do not have numbers. They have keys with unique attachments instead.
At 4:15, they met their guide and driver. The driver took them to the entrance to a lake. As they drove, the guide suggested changes to their itinerary, if they would like. Pati and BeeBee had heard this pitch before (in Shimla), so they said they liked what was in the itinerary and wanted to do that. At the lake, the guide dismissed the driver until 4:30 tomorrow. All of the scheduled touring is on foot until tomorrow afternoon. This lake also has ghats (steps) and beautiful buildings around and in it. The guide told them an amusing story about a prostitute who set up shop beside the lake; her customers were the gypsies who lived on the opposite bank of the lake. She built a small temple on top of her building and ghats, and the king was unable to evict her for that reason. Pati took lots of pictures. Some boys were throwing bits of bread into the lake to feed some giant catfish. People often feed these fish, because they represent a Hindu deity.
They then walked through the neighborhoods between the lake and their hotel, and the guide pointed out the beautiful architecture and fretwork in the local golden sandstone. (Jaisalmer is known as the Golden City.) As they were walking through a narrow street, they came upon a cow standing with its front feet on the top step of a home (back feet on the street), with its nose pressed to the window in the top half of the door. The guide explained that each family at dinner time cooks three extra chipatis: one for the dog, one for the gypsies, and one for the cow. This cow was waiting for its chapati. Another thing that they saw repeatedly was a wedding picture painted on the side of a house where a couple was to be (or had already been) married. It was a picture of Ganesha eating sweets, with the date of the marriage. The words in Rajasthani were an invitation to the wedding events. Their guide bought them each a sweet of the type in the picture (a golden round ball), and they could understand why Ganesh is so fond of this particular sweet.
Their guide is Brahmin, as was their guide in Shimla. Although India has officially done away with the caste system, both of these guides were quick to identify themselves as Brahmin (the highest caste) and to explain the caste system. Apparently, it is everyone else's job to provide for the Brahmin while they sit around and think big thoughts. Pati and BeeBee have seen quite a few Brahmin sitting around so they know that's at least half true.
After their tour, Pati and BeeBee were escorted back to their hotel at about 6:30. They had a small dinner at the rooftop restaurant. They had a wonderful view of the fort on top of the hill, and of the simultaneous sunset and moonrise. They spent the rest of the evening catching up on the internet. (Phalodi had no wifi.)
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| Where is my chipati? |
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