Saturday, 8 November 2014, Jaisalmer
Pati and BeeBee got up at 6 am today to be ready for their guide at 9:15. After a luxurious shower, BeeBee gathered laundry (happy happy joy joy) to turn in this morning, to be returned clean this evening. They had a very good breakfast in the rooftop restaurant, and met their guide right on time at the entrance to the hotel.
They set off on foot in the same direction as yesterday, but today continued to the entrance to the Jaisalmer Fort on the hilltop. As always, they had to avoid motorcycles and cows and cow patties on the pavement. The guide repeatedly told them to watch their step, which, by now, was second-nature to Pati and BeeBee, although the cow patties in Jaisalmer are particularly vile. The guide also warned them to be very careful around cows, since people have gotten hurt. Perhaps cows here are meaner than those in other cities. One pleasant observation was the number of motorcycle tracks through the cow patties. Maybe there is something to karma.
They entered the Fort, which is more of a small city than a fort, since a few thousand people live there free (except for electricity and water) as descendants of people who lived there to serve the king. Only Brahmins and warrior caste may live there, which does not explain all the people selling merchandise there (another caste). The guide warned them against buying anything in the Fort, since it would be lower quality, and then Pati and BeeBee would think less of the guide when they got home. They were impressed with his honesty. The guide explained the history of the fort as they explored it. At the end, he gave them a choice of climbing to the top of the palace ("110 steps") or to the top of some other lower building with a good view (easier climb). Pati and BeeBee have become wary of buildings with a view, since they always end with a slow painful trip through a buying opportunity. They opted for climbing to the top of the palace. Although he seemed disappointed with this choice, the guide went in with them and explained the many displays of weapons and pictures of royalty inside. Very soon, they were on the rooftop with a splendid view. (Where was the difficult climb, they wondered.) They could even see their hotel from there, and learned that it has 4 solar panels on the roof.
As they wandered around, their guide was on his cell phone, as he had been frequently all along, although it did not seem to interfere with his job. As they were about to leave the fort, the guide asked if they would like to go to a factory where good silver jewelry was made. "No thank you," Pati and Beebee said. "As you will," he said. They walked on, following the guide who was again talking on his cell phone. Soon: "Would you like to go to a store where they sell good pashminas?" "No thank you," they said. "As you will," he said. They walked on. "Would you like to see some old havelis on the way to your hotel?" "Yes," they said. They stopped at one, and the guide sent them inside. They climbed steep steps and found a small temple or shrine. They each glanced in the small room, which had several other people in it. BeeBee noticed a room off the stairway which had textile products in it. Recognizing the trap, she led Pati outside before they could be stopped. The next haveli was actually two joined havelis built in competition by two brothers. "I can't go in with you," the guide said. "One of the owners will show you around." That was another tipoff, but Pati and BeeBee went anyway, because it was a beautiful house. The owner led them through several rooms and upstairs to a large area with many display cases of merchandise . He showed them pictures on the walls, which were attractive but not outstanding. Then he began his pitch, showing them opium bowls, and explaining the difference between wooden ones and those made of camel bone. The test between the two is that camel bone does not burn. He led them toward another display case, explaining that the sale of merchandise helps with the costs of renovation. Noticing that Pati and BeeBee were not to be swayed, he said "You can go now" and led them through the maze of rooms and stairs back to the street, where undoubtedly (BeeBee did not notice) he positioned himself to receive the next victim. As he was after the first haveli visit, the guide seemed surprised to see them again so soon. Since the tour was officially over, he asked their plans. To go back to the hotel, they said.
They set off for the hotel. The guide seemed dejected. He no longer warned them about cows or cow droppings. In fact, BeeBee saw that he actually brushed his shoe through something she would definitely avoid. More proof of karma! Soon they were back to the hotel, and the guide quickly said goodbye until the afternoon tour and hurried to his motorcycle. Pati hoped he would motor off into the sunset but knew he would be back for a tip.
Pati and BeeBee went into the coolness of their hotel. They had a small lunch in the rooftop restaurant with its splendid views. They rested until the afternoon activity, which includes a camel ride.
Pati and BeeBee got up at 6 am today to be ready for their guide at 9:15. After a luxurious shower, BeeBee gathered laundry (happy happy joy joy) to turn in this morning, to be returned clean this evening. They had a very good breakfast in the rooftop restaurant, and met their guide right on time at the entrance to the hotel.
They set off on foot in the same direction as yesterday, but today continued to the entrance to the Jaisalmer Fort on the hilltop. As always, they had to avoid motorcycles and cows and cow patties on the pavement. The guide repeatedly told them to watch their step, which, by now, was second-nature to Pati and BeeBee, although the cow patties in Jaisalmer are particularly vile. The guide also warned them to be very careful around cows, since people have gotten hurt. Perhaps cows here are meaner than those in other cities. One pleasant observation was the number of motorcycle tracks through the cow patties. Maybe there is something to karma.
They saw a small boy at the door to a house. The woman of the house was dropping food into a plastic bag he was holding. "He is an untouchable, a gypsy," the guide said. "She cannot touch him." Although the boy seemed happy to get the food, Pati and BeeBee were quite sad about this. They also hoped that the cow they saw yesterday got its chapati.
They entered the Fort, which is more of a small city than a fort, since a few thousand people live there free (except for electricity and water) as descendants of people who lived there to serve the king. Only Brahmins and warrior caste may live there, which does not explain all the people selling merchandise there (another caste). The guide warned them against buying anything in the Fort, since it would be lower quality, and then Pati and BeeBee would think less of the guide when they got home. They were impressed with his honesty. The guide explained the history of the fort as they explored it. At the end, he gave them a choice of climbing to the top of the palace ("110 steps") or to the top of some other lower building with a good view (easier climb). Pati and BeeBee have become wary of buildings with a view, since they always end with a slow painful trip through a buying opportunity. They opted for climbing to the top of the palace. Although he seemed disappointed with this choice, the guide went in with them and explained the many displays of weapons and pictures of royalty inside. Very soon, they were on the rooftop with a splendid view. (Where was the difficult climb, they wondered.) They could even see their hotel from there, and learned that it has 4 solar panels on the roof.
As they wandered around, their guide was on his cell phone, as he had been frequently all along, although it did not seem to interfere with his job. As they were about to leave the fort, the guide asked if they would like to go to a factory where good silver jewelry was made. "No thank you," Pati and Beebee said. "As you will," he said. They walked on, following the guide who was again talking on his cell phone. Soon: "Would you like to go to a store where they sell good pashminas?" "No thank you," they said. "As you will," he said. They walked on. "Would you like to see some old havelis on the way to your hotel?" "Yes," they said. They stopped at one, and the guide sent them inside. They climbed steep steps and found a small temple or shrine. They each glanced in the small room, which had several other people in it. BeeBee noticed a room off the stairway which had textile products in it. Recognizing the trap, she led Pati outside before they could be stopped. The next haveli was actually two joined havelis built in competition by two brothers. "I can't go in with you," the guide said. "One of the owners will show you around." That was another tipoff, but Pati and BeeBee went anyway, because it was a beautiful house. The owner led them through several rooms and upstairs to a large area with many display cases of merchandise . He showed them pictures on the walls, which were attractive but not outstanding. Then he began his pitch, showing them opium bowls, and explaining the difference between wooden ones and those made of camel bone. The test between the two is that camel bone does not burn. He led them toward another display case, explaining that the sale of merchandise helps with the costs of renovation. Noticing that Pati and BeeBee were not to be swayed, he said "You can go now" and led them through the maze of rooms and stairs back to the street, where undoubtedly (BeeBee did not notice) he positioned himself to receive the next victim. As he was after the first haveli visit, the guide seemed surprised to see them again so soon. Since the tour was officially over, he asked their plans. To go back to the hotel, they said.
They set off for the hotel. The guide seemed dejected. He no longer warned them about cows or cow droppings. In fact, BeeBee saw that he actually brushed his shoe through something she would definitely avoid. More proof of karma! Soon they were back to the hotel, and the guide quickly said goodbye until the afternoon tour and hurried to his motorcycle. Pati hoped he would motor off into the sunset but knew he would be back for a tip.
Pati and BeeBee went into the coolness of their hotel. They had a small lunch in the rooftop restaurant with its splendid views. They rested until the afternoon activity, which includes a camel ride.
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