Sardargarh - Meter Gauge Train

Friday, 14 November 2014 , Sardargarh  

Today Pati and BeeBee rode on a meter gauge local train between two villages, a distance of 44 km. They boarded the train at the small Sardargarh station. Their traveling companions from the hotel were the Dutch foursome, plus a guide. All 7 of them sat on two opposing bench seats, which had berths above for sleeping (no one used them but BeeBee saw Pati considering them). BeeBee had a window seat for excellent picture-taking opportunities. Each train window had 4 horizontal metal bars, which were not a problem, because their camera was small enough to fit between the bars. The first part of the trip went through and stopped at other villages. At the first stop, the rails split into two sets of tracks. Another train was waiting on the other set of tracks, and some villagers switched between trains.

At one stop, an elderly man in white with a colorful turban got on and sat at the end of bench, diagonal from BeeBee. He and the guide chatted, be graciously posed for pictures, and then he demonstrated how he tied his turban (BeeBee has video). He offered the turban to one of the Dutchmen, who posed in it. Then the other Dutchman and Pati tried the turban and posed, and then finally all three women - BeeBee included - did the same. 

At another stop, the guide got down from the train and took pictures of each couple peering through the bars of the train window, using their cameras. Finally, the Dutch group left the train at the Manwar stop, where their driver and guide were waiting to take them in some further adventures. Pati, BeeBee and their guide remained on the train for even more exciting scenery.   

The train passes through the Ravli Sanctuary, with 100-foot-high bridges, two long tunnels (where the guide and other passengers made erie sounds for the echo effect), a (now dry) waterfall, and thick jungle. The track was cut out of the side of the cliff, with steep drops to left side of the train. There is a change of 1000 feet in elevation, downward. This railroad was built in 1928.  

One of the first stops was to test the brakes. Pati, BeeBee, and the guide got off, and he showed them the various parts of the station and explained its history. Reboarding, the guide opened a window so that BeeBee could take pictures without the bars. She took many pictures of the gorgeous scenery and of the train as it curved toward a bridge or tunnel. The train paused at the Goram Ghat flag station, where the monkeys were waiting for their treats. Villagers tossed them chipatis, while the guides gave Pati and BeeBee crackers to toss. Finally arriving at Phulad, Pati, BeeBee, and the guide left the train. Deepak was waiting with the car, and they all drove back to the hotel, following the same route they had traveled yesterday.

Meter Gauge Train

Manvar

Monday, 10 November 2014, Manvar

This morning Pati and BeeBee had their last breakfast at the Hotel Pleasant Haveli and set off at 10 am with their driver for their next destination: Manvar. They stopped at the same rest stop as before and had coffee/tea while their driver had a quick breakfast. Shortly after continuing their drive, they passed the turnoff to Phalodi and were happy they weren't headed in that direction again.

At about 1 pm, they arrived at Manvar Resort and Camp and checked in. Their actual room was a tent just a little farther into the Thar desert. They were grouped with an English couple for the drive to the tents. They didn't know it at first, but this drive was the jeep safari. As the ride continued, they began to wonder just how early they would have to get up on Tuesday to get back to the starting point for a 10 am checkout. The jeep safari was 99.9% off-road through scrub and sand. The best parts for Pati and the Englishman were the unexpected rollercoaster-like steep drops down through scrub and dunes. Reminiscent of the Pushkar ferris wheel, there were no seatbelts, just rollbars.

They saw Indian antelope, deer, birds, and the occasional cow. They also visited the home of a local Rajasthani woman and observed her cooking hut, concrete house, lamb pen, and storehouse. The paving on the ground was a mixture of cow manure and mud, dried to the appearance and hardness of concrete. Since the group had taken off their shoes for the visit, this was information that Pati and BeeBee could have done without.  She was preparing dinner. She was dressed in traditional clothing with a veil; she kept her face covered when any of the tour group was near her. As the group was about to leave her cooking hut, where she was at the time, she received a call on her cellphone. She pulled the phone from somewhere inside her costume and took the call. It was a startling juxtaposition of modern with medieval.

The jeep dropped them off at the tent camp, and their luggage arrived an hour later. Pati and BeeBee were in tent #2 and the English couple were in tent #3. There are approximately 40 tents for guests, a large meal tent, and a concrete circle for the night's entertainment, with low cushions set in a semicircle for viewing the entertainment. (This seating is only there in the evenings.)

At 5 pm, Pati and BeeBee, the English couple, and some other campers set off on their camel safari to view the sunset from high sand dunes. Ths time, Pati and BeeBee were both on the same camel, and he had a definite list to one side. For the second time, they held on tight, but this time the trip had more up-and-down to it: more climbing and descending, more drop-offs. Finally at the top, the group of 5 camels and drivers, 9 riders, and 2 small boys enjoyed the sunset. The group returned to camp the same way and arrived before total darkness.

Pati and BeeBee then sat on the terrace beside the meal tent for quality internetting. That's where the signal is strongest. The entertainment of traditional music and dancing began after dark, and the guests were treated to (also traditional) snacks during the performance. The stars overhead were clear and beautiful. Entertainment was followed by a good meal in the tent.  At 9 pm, most of the guests (including Pati and BeeBee) had retired to their tents.

The tent has a light-colored stone tiled  porch about 6' by 14' with steps, a bedroom about 14' square, and a modern permanent bathroom about 6' by 14' with sink, toilet, and shower. The walls of the tent are double canvas, white on the outside and decorated on the inside. The outer door zips shut from either side, and can be rolled up. The bathroom door is a reed hanging plus a canvas door that can be rolled up. There are 4 windows that can be pulled up like roman shades with non-moving screens. There are electric lights and ample outlets. The concrete floor is covered completely by sisal rugs in the bedroom, and by dark stone tile in the bathroom. The furnishings are elegantly simple. This is one of BeeBee's favorite "hotels" so far.