BeeBee Hits the Trifecta

Saturday, 8 November 2014, Jaisalmer

This morning, Pati and BeeBee were standing at the edge of a narrow street, listening to their guide describe the architecture of a building across from them. There was a telephone or electric line just above them, and a number of pigeons using it. Suddenly, BeeBee felt something on her shirt. She glanced down and saw a small white clump beside a button. She asked Pati to look also, and he confirmed another small but direct hit on her shirt, which she, fortunately, could not see. "It will dry," she said, "and then it will just scrape off." At least it wasn't in her hair.

A few minutes later, as they were sharing a narrow spot with other tourists and motorcycles, BeeBee felt her arm jerk backward. A passing motorcycle had snagged her sleeve on one of its projecting metal parts and was taking the sleeve with it. She quickly pulled free and checked her arm and sleeve. No skin was broken, and the sleeve was intact.

At this point, she remembered the childhood saying "bad things happen in threes." She began to wonder what the third bad thing would be. Stepping in cow poo, perhaps? She really hoped not! Even knowing that it was silly, a small worry nagged in the back of her mind.

Then, as they were walking down another small street, it happened. There was yet another cow taking up most of the street. BeeBee walked by cautiously. The cow flicked its tail, hitting BeeBee squarely in the back, but leaving no mark and no pain. The third bad thing. It was over. 

Jaisalmer - Morning of the First Full Day

Saturday, 8 November 2014, Jaisalmer

Pati and BeeBee got up at 6 am today to be ready for their guide at 9:15. After a luxurious shower, BeeBee gathered laundry (happy happy joy joy) to turn in this morning, to be returned clean this evening. They had a very good breakfast in the rooftop restaurant, and met their guide right on time at the entrance to the hotel.

They set off on foot in the same direction as yesterday, but today continued to the entrance to the Jaisalmer Fort on the hilltop.  As always, they had to avoid motorcycles and cows and cow patties on the pavement. The guide repeatedly told them to watch their step, which, by now, was second-nature to Pati and BeeBee, although the cow patties in Jaisalmer are particularly vile. The guide also warned them to be very careful around cows, since people have gotten hurt. Perhaps cows here are meaner than those in other cities. One pleasant observation was the number of motorcycle tracks through the cow patties. Maybe there is something to karma.

They saw a small boy at the door to a house. The woman of the house was dropping food into a plastic bag he was holding. "He is an untouchable, a gypsy," the guide said. "She cannot touch him." Although the boy seemed happy to get the food, Pati and BeeBee were quite sad about this. They also hoped that the cow they saw yesterday got its chapati.

They entered the Fort, which is more of a small city than a fort, since a few thousand people live there free (except for electricity and water) as descendants of people who lived there to serve the king. Only Brahmins and warrior caste may live there, which does not explain all the people selling merchandise there (another caste). The guide warned them against buying anything in the Fort, since it would be lower quality, and then Pati and BeeBee would think less of the guide when they got home. They were impressed with his honesty. The guide explained the history of the fort as they explored it. At the end, he gave them a choice of climbing to the top of the palace ("110 steps") or to the top of some other lower building with a good view (easier climb). Pati and BeeBee have become wary of buildings with a view, since they always end with a slow painful trip through a buying opportunity. They opted for climbing to the top of the palace. Although he seemed disappointed with this choice, the guide went in with them and explained the many displays of weapons and pictures of royalty inside. Very soon, they were on the rooftop with a splendid view. (Where was the difficult climb, they wondered.) They could even see their hotel from there, and learned that it has 4 solar panels on the roof.

As they wandered around, their guide was on his cell phone, as he had been frequently all along, although it did not seem to interfere with his job. As they were about to leave the fort, the guide asked if they would like to go to a factory where good silver jewelry was made. "No thank you," Pati and Beebee said.  "As you will," he said. They walked on, following the guide who was again talking on his cell phone. Soon: "Would you like to go to a store where they sell good pashminas?" "No thank you," they said. "As you will," he said. They walked on. "Would you like to see some old havelis on the way to your hotel?" "Yes," they said. They stopped at one, and the guide sent them inside. They climbed steep steps and found a small temple or shrine. They each glanced in the small room, which had several other people in it. BeeBee noticed a room off the stairway which had textile products in it. Recognizing the trap, she led Pati outside before they could be stopped.  The next haveli was actually two joined havelis built in competition by  two brothers. "I can't go in with you," the guide said. "One of the owners will show you around." That was another tipoff, but Pati and BeeBee went anyway, because it was a beautiful house. The owner led them through several rooms and upstairs to a large area with many display cases of merchandise . He showed them pictures on the walls, which were attractive but not outstanding. Then he began his pitch, showing them opium bowls, and explaining the difference between wooden ones and those made of camel bone. The test between the two is that camel bone does not burn. He led them toward another display case, explaining that the sale of merchandise helps with the costs of renovation. Noticing that Pati and BeeBee were not to be swayed, he said "You can go now" and led them through the maze of rooms and stairs back to the street, where undoubtedly (BeeBee did not notice) he positioned himself to receive the next victim. As he was after the first haveli visit, the guide seemed surprised to see them again so soon. Since the tour was officially over, he asked their plans. To go back to the hotel, they said.

They set off for the hotel. The guide seemed dejected. He no longer warned them about cows or cow droppings. In fact, BeeBee saw that he actually brushed his shoe through something she would definitely avoid. More proof of karma! Soon they were back to the hotel, and the guide quickly said goodbye until the afternoon tour and hurried to his motorcycle. Pati hoped he would motor off into the sunset but knew he would be back for a tip.

Pati and BeeBee went into the coolness of their hotel. They had a small lunch in the rooftop restaurant with its splendid views.  They rested until the afternoon activity, which includes a camel ride.

Jaisalmer - First Afternoon

Friday, 7 November 2014, Jaisalmer

The drive from Phalodi to Jaisalmer was uneventful. About an hour away from Phalodi, the driver asked if Pati and BeeBee would like a rest break, because there wouldn't be another opportunity before Jaisalmer. Pati said yes, as usual, and the driver went on to say that he would have breakfast when we stopped, because (unfortunately for him) he had also spent the night at Lal Liwas (there is no other place in Phalodi for drivers to stay) and they refused to give him any breakfast. He did get a shower. Pati and BeeBee got a quick coke/tea at the restaurant at the stop, and the driver got something to eat somewhere in the same building. He was ready to go in 15 minutes. BeeBee wonders what kind of life drivers have on the road.

They arrived at their hotel (Hotel Pleasant Havali) in Jaisalmer at about 1:30, and were shown to a beautiful room. The bathroom had running water (BeeBee checked immediately). Their walking tour was scheduled for 4 pm, so they went to the rooftop restaurant for a delicious lunch. Here they learned that they could get bottled water free whenever they wanted it, from the restaurant or front desk.  The server charged their meal to room 8, which was a bit of news because the rooms do not have numbers. They have keys with unique attachments instead.

At 4:15, they met their guide and driver. The driver took them to the entrance to a lake. As they drove, the guide suggested changes to their itinerary, if they would like. Pati and BeeBee had heard this pitch before (in Shimla), so they said they liked what was in the itinerary and wanted to do that. At the lake, the guide dismissed the driver until 4:30 tomorrow. All of the scheduled touring is on foot until tomorrow afternoon. This lake also has ghats (steps) and beautiful buildings around and in it. The guide told them an amusing story about a prostitute who set up shop beside the lake; her customers were the gypsies who lived on the opposite bank of the lake. She built a small temple on top of her building and ghats, and the king was unable to evict her for that reason. Pati took lots of pictures. Some boys were throwing bits of bread into the lake to feed some giant catfish. People often feed these fish, because they represent a Hindu deity.

They then walked through the neighborhoods between the lake and their hotel, and the guide pointed out the beautiful architecture and fretwork in the local golden sandstone. (Jaisalmer is known as the Golden City.)  As they were walking through a narrow street, they came upon a cow standing with its front feet on the top step of a home (back feet on the street), with its nose pressed to the window in the top half of the door. The guide explained that each family at dinner time cooks three extra chipatis: one for the dog, one for the gypsies, and one for the cow. This cow was waiting for its chapati. Another thing that they saw repeatedly was a wedding picture painted on the side of a house where a couple was to be (or had already been) married. It was a picture of Ganesha eating sweets, with the date of the marriage. The words in Rajasthani were an invitation to the wedding events. Their guide bought them each a sweet of the type in the picture (a golden round ball), and they could understand why Ganesh is so fond of this particular sweet.

Their guide is Brahmin, as was their guide in Shimla. Although India has officially done away with the caste system, both of these guides were quick to identify themselves as Brahmin (the highest caste) and to explain the caste system. Apparently, it is everyone else's job to provide for the Brahmin  while they sit around and think big thoughts. Pati and BeeBee have seen quite a few Brahmin sitting around so they know that's at least half true.

After their tour, Pati and BeeBee were escorted back to their hotel at about 6:30. They had a small dinner at the rooftop restaurant. They had a wonderful view of the fort on top of the hill, and of the simultaneous sunset and moonrise. They spent the rest of the evening catching up on the internet. (Phalodi had no wifi.)

Where is my chipati?

India doesn't give us the bird

Friday, 7 November 2014 AM, Phalodi

Pati and BeeBee are so looking forward to being out of Phalodi in general and out of Lal Niwas in particular. Yesterday they realized that there was no drinking water in their room, even though the directory of services specified that there would be. They asked twice for water, finally being told it would be delivered to their room. When they returned to their room, there was no drinking water, but they decided they had brought enough of their own for teeth brushing.  They went to bed early, without dinner, because they had an early 7 am start on Friday.

Sleep was difficult, because the fan made whump-whump noises all night, yet there were also small swishing noises that made BeeBee think about rats ... At 5:15 am, BeeBee got up to take a shower. (The driver had suggested several times that they would first go to see the birds, then return to the hotel for a shower and food, but BeeBee saw no reason to prolong their stay.) BeeBee went into the bathroom, checking that the hot water heater was turned on. It was. She brushed her teeth with bottled water, then checked the shower taps before turning on the shower head. No water. She checked the sink taps. No water.  She woke up Pati. He checked all the taps. No water. They knew a call to the front desk would be pointless, because, even if someone would answer the phone at that hour,  they do not understand English. Pati and BeeBee went back to bed. The Jains began to sing and chant outside every 15 minutes. (The town has a large population of Jains.) Today is the day that Jain priests begin their 8 months of travel; perhaps it was some kind of sendoff. Finally, at 6:30, they got up again, brushed their teeth with bottled water, dressed, and, feeling especially grubby, met their driver to drive to see the birds.

The town that Pati and BeeBee visited yesterday, in preparation for bird watching today, is Khichan. This small town is a resting place for Mademoiselle cranes as they migrate. They land at several lakes for water, and feed all over the area. There is one special feeding area, a rectangular fenced-in area next door to a man who has championed these birds for years. He feeds them in that lot, and allows anyone to view them from the flat rooftop of his house.

The driver headed to the same lake that they visited yesterday, arriving a few minutes after 7 am. No birds. The driver went off to chat with the locals about where the birds might be. They told him about the special feeding area, and so Pati and BeeBee got back in the car and they headed for that area. No birds. They climbed to the roof of the house to wait with some other bird watchers sporting cameras with huge lenses. The "bird man" served masala chai and showed everyone the clippings about his work and the awards he has won. The only birds arriving were pigeons, who feasted on the cranes' food. Suddenly, formations of cranes began to fly overhead. Other formations could also be seen in the distance, flying in from other areas. Apparently, they first go to the lakes, then come to this special area to feed. But no cranes were landing at this spot. Since they had a schedule to keep, Pati and BeeBee waited until 8:10, then decided to go back to the lake and check again. No birds.

They went back to the hotel, where the driver informed the management in Rajasthani that (a) there was no running water in the room and (b) there had been a dead rat in the dining area yesterday.  Pati and BeeBee climbed to their room, and, miraculously, there was running water. A young man arrived almost immediately, went into the bathroom, and showed Pati how he had just been turning the taps incorrectly! (Unfortunately for him, he stood under the shower when he demonstrated how Pati should have done it.) Pati and BeeBee showered and went to the restaurant, where they picked a table far from the erstwhile rat and ordered the safest food on the menu. While they ate, a manager came into the area haranguing the cleaning fellow from yesterday.

Pati and BeeBee went back to their room, brushed their teeth with their own bottled water, grabbed their luggage, and started to the elevator with it. The elevator came almost immediately; it was full of luggage and one hotel staff, who got off the elevator and left, with the elevator unusable full. They found their way down two dark flights of stairs, paid their small remaining bill, and escaped.

Hoping their luck had changed, they headed back to Khichan for a last attempt to see cranes close up. They checked the feeding area. Success! A small group of cranes that flew away immediately. They checked the lake. No birds. Taking pity on them, the driver drove around randomly looking for cranes, finally spotting 5 of them in a field. Going off-road, he got Pati and BeeBee close enough that they could walk slowly closer and get some good pictures. They decided that was enough birding and headed off down the road to Jaiselmer and new adventures.

A little nightcap

Thursday, 6 November 2014 (PM), Phalodi

After lunch at Lal Niwas, Pati and BeeBee decided they will be too full for dinner (even if they are hungry). They also learned that they had eaten lunch at the best place in town. Pati saw "Fort DeHamir Bar - A well stocked bar that serves cocktails & Mocktails" in the hotel directory. He thought "alcohol kills germs and the sugar in drinks kills hunger" maybe that will do (sugar in tea would work too but despite ordering it in three different restaurants in the last three days it never seems to come). Pati and BeeBee went to the front desk and asked directions to the Fort DeHamir. They were led to a locked room by a member of the hotel staff. He unlocked the door, pushed aside a roman shade, and turned on the lights. Pati and BeeBee knew they shouldn't go in but they did. Pati didn't recognize much but saw a type of beer that was OK and ordered one. They brought him a different brand which isn't OK but he accepted it. BeeBee doesn't drink beer but he thought she might have a sweet mixed drink (she has a cold and Pati knew Nyquil was basically alcohol). He asked the bartender "Do you make cocktails?" The bartender said "Yes" and gave Pati something that resembled a 6 inch potato chip. BeeBee said  "I have had enough weird for one day, let's go." Pati drank his beer as quickly as possible while the bartender stood about a foot away glaring disapprovingly. Pati and BeeBee left and the bar closed again. It is a pretty happening place! On the way back to their room, Pati and BeeBee saw their driver. He mentioned that, despite having a large number of rooms, Pati and BeeBee were the only guests at Lal Niwas. It is a hidden treasure! Pati and BeeBee are considering being too full for breakfast (even if they are starving).

Would you like curry with that rat?

Thursday, 6 November (Mid-Day), Phalodi

After the long drive from Pushkar, Pati and BeeBee finally reached a hotel.  Given their experience in Pushkar, BeeBee insisted on checking the hotel name against their itinerary. "There is only one hotel in Philodi," the driver said. It was the hotel Lal Niwas, a two hundred year old mansion, which, according to toiletries in the room, is also a Days Inn. The man in reception insisted that they check out rooms 202 and 211 before deciding on a room. They went to their room using an elevator with a sign that says "Both use three person at time" They tried.  

The man carrying their bags took them to room 202. Another hotel staffer was already there unlocking the door. He was carrying a spray can of some sort, and entered before them, spraying furiously under the bed and in other suspicious spots. He waved them in, pointed out aspects of the room ("Don't hit your head" entering the bathroom), and hurried off with no mention of room 211. BeeBee looked under the bed to make sure nothing looked back. Then she said to Pati "This room has no windows!" She also noted that the directory of services book in their room has a tab labeled "Places of Interest." There is nothing listed.  

To escape their room, Pati and BeeBee went off to find the dining room for lunch. The place was empty. There were tables both inside and out and it was hot inside. Pati and BeeBee chose a seat outside next to the swimming pool. It was green and full of bird feathers (so much for Pati's swim). The table cloth was covered with ashes and grease stained. Two waiters came our, and with great ceremony, shook the tablecloth and put it right back on the table. One of the waiters, who reminded Pati and BeeBee of Manuel from Faulty Towers, came to take the order. He made recommendations for dishes which turned out to be very tasty. He then brought plates and repeatedly dusted them. He placed the silverware, carefully handling each utensil by the eating end, and explained to Pati "This is knife, fork, spoon." (Pati and BeeBee wiped their utensils with paper napkins when no one else was looking.) When the food came, he began placing dishes and began to move the salt and pepper shakers around the table with the intensity of a chess grand master in a timed match. He then wiped their plates again, wiped off the salt and pepper shakers with his hands, and layered Pati's lap with paper napkins. At any moment, BeeBee expected him to ask "May I lick your spoon?"
 

Pati saw that BeeBee was bothered by the grimy tablecloth, so he said "Don't look over there." She looked. What she saw was a dead rat about five feet from the table. BeeBee thought it was about 8 inches long from nose to base of tail but she didn't go over to measure it (Pati supposed it was 20 centimeters long because he thought it was a metric rat). Becoming quite fond of the dead rat, BeeBee proposed naming him Basil.

A few minutes later, a cleaning man was walking by. He looked and saw the rat. Then he did a double take when he saw Pati and BeeBee sitting next to it. He vanished for about 30 seconds planning his next move. He then appeared with a broom and dustpan and casually swept various places on the floor working his way to the rat. Finally, he casually knelt trying to block the view of the rat. Then he disappeared, as had the rat. Pati and BeeBee fully expected their waiter to ask "Would you like curry with your rat?" Later in the day, Pati wondered if the Lal Niwas was the worst hotel he had ever stayed in. A motel on the outskirts of Atlantic City came to mind, but Pati decided that motel was only second.

Lal Niwas

Both Use Three Person at Time

Basil

A quick send off from Khimsar

Thursday, 6 November 2014, Khimsar and Khichan

The day started well enough for Pati and BeeBee. They awoke in their beautiful room in the Hotel Khimsar Fort and went to the dining hall for breakfast. Pati gave a longing look at the crystal clear swimming pool and hoped there would be time to swim at the next stop. They returned to their room, put out the "Do Not Disturb Sign," and began to pack. Just as they were finishing, the doorbell rang. Pati answered and a liveried hotel worker said "Would you like room service now?"  Pati said "No thank you, we will be leaving this morning." At that, the hotel worker entered and proceeded to ransack the linens and check the minibar. He looked at their luggage. Pati was already carrying the camera bag, but BeeBee's green tote was still sitting on the floor, as she was putting her shoes on. He grabbed that, but she said she would carry that. He sat it on the coffee table and instructed Pati "You carry too." He grabbed the suitcases and started to herd them to the door. At this point, BeeBee, knowing full well that she had packed everything and left nothing behind, said "Wait. I have to check something" and started off for the bathroom, with the hotel guy following closely behind. She glanced to the left, then the right, in the bathroom, then said "o.k." and returned to the sitting area. The hotel worker marched them to the departure point, looked at Pati and said "You driver not here." Pati didn't expect to see the driver since he hadn't planned to leave quite so soon. But, it was a nice day and after a few minutes the driver came and they were on their way.

The drive took about three hours passing through nondescript scenery and impoverished villages. At one point, the driver asked Pati if he would like to stop and take a picture of one of the traditional huts people lived in. Pati said yes - he always says yes to the driver and BeeBee. As he was taking the picture, five children came to greet him with their mother. They didn't speak English but, as far as Pati could tell, they were NOT asking him for money (a traditional child's greeting is to stick out his or her hand and say "money"). Pati was shocked by their behavior! He called back for BeeBee to bring writing pens to give to the children (all the guide books say Indian children love pens so Pati and BeeBee brought some for situations just like this).

Later, the driver said "We are coming to see birds in this place tomorrow, would you like to see it now?" Pati said "yes." It actually turned out that the driver had no idea where the bird sanctuary was and was just trying to find it before the tomorrow morning visit. After finding it,  they saw about 100 cranes in the distance (Pati sure hopes there are more upon their next visit). A boy about 10 years old came to Pati, said something in Ragisthani, and flapped his arms. Pati nodded politely and the boy then chased off about half the birds Pati and BeeBee were looking at. He then looked at Pati and said "Give me 100 rupees." Pati only gave him 50 rupees. For 100 rupees, Pati would have scared the birds off by himself. The boy clearly was not satisfied and followed them to the car: "Give me chok-lit" he said.   Pati and BeeBee got back in the car for the 15 minute drive to the hotel. They thought that when they got there things would be better. Boy, were they wrong! But that is the next story.