Pushkar Camel Fair - Day 5

Tuesday, 4 November 2014

Pati and BeeBee did the usual 7 am rise and breakfast and then set out walking toward the fairgrounds. Just before the main road, they caught a tuk-tuk to the stadium.

Arriving just before 10 am for the 11 am event, they found one empty plastic chair for BeeBee. With Pati sitting on the step beside her, they settled in to wait the hour for the events they came to see: the turban-tying contest and the mustache contest. Today they tried a different tactic: instead of sitting on the very top step, which should have the best view (but gets blocked), they sat on the step just behind the judges' table. That was not a good place to be either, as photographers and other "officials" crowded in, blocking the view again during the show. However, the three most serious mustache contenders arrived early and sat just feet away from Pati and BeeBee, so they had an excellent view of the men and their mustaches before the competition. They appeared to be great friends, probably competing against each other year after year. They were dressed in ornately-decorated white clothing, with colorful turbans. A fourth contender appeared a little later and sat beside BeeBee on the step (she had lost her chair by then to the "officials"); although he was more shabbily dressed, he had a respectable mustache.  The turban-tying contest consisted of 8 foreign couples, with the female tying a turban on the male. The two turban-tying contests appeared to be for style (first) and then speed. The 3 place-winning males received plaques (the females, who did the work, received nothing). This event was announced in English and Rajasthani. The main event for mustache length had 9 contestants. To prove length, they had to unwind the mustache. The one foreign contestant had the smallest, a handlebar mustache (no unwinding necessary). The rest ranged from handlebar, to several that were 3 or 4 feet long, to the obvious winner at possibly 12 feet long. This event was announced in Rajasthani only. The prize was 550 rupees (around $9 USD).

Pati and BeeBee then shopped a bit for souvenirs, since this is their last full day in Pushkar. They had lunch at the Hard Rock Cafe and took pictures of themselves with Mango, who is the head waiter there.  They spent a few minutes looking at the Lake, fending off the marigold-pushing priests looking for large "donations," and headed back to the B&B, catching a tuk-tuk just before leaving the main road.

After a few hours of internetting and tea at the B&B, they headed back to the market for a last visit. They had pasta at Hard Rock Cafe for dinner, and Mango made a special farewell cake for them.  Unlike all previous trips to or from the market or fair, not one tuk-tuk offered to sell them a ride (at inflated prices for the fair), so they were able to walk off some of the rich food they had eaten. Also unusual, no one offered to shine their shoes, which they had been putting off until the last day when they were through walking in sand.

And so Pati and BeeBee will leave Pushkar tomorrow, but the fair will continue, mostly for religious pilgrims rather than camels.

Footnote. According to CNN, J. C. Chounan was the winner of the longest moustache contest with a combined length of 11 feet. This moustache took 18 years to grow.

Pushkar Camel Fair - Day 4

Monday, 3 November 2014

Pati and BeeBee got up at the usual 7 am and had the usual breakfast in the usual place. During breakfast, Rohit, who is the nephew of the manager, spent some time talking with them about the land and religion (there are 400 temples in Pushkar). The manager's father owns the land around the B&B as well as several other adjacent B&Bs. He is a retired secondary school physics teacher and spends his retirement working on his garden plots. These plots grow the grains and vegetables used for the food in the B&Bs; the grandmother (omo) grinds their own grains to make the bread products (e.g., chipatis) that they serve. Right now, the fields are planted and watered, but they will not be ready for harvest for three months. The fields must be beautiful at harvest time.  There is also a greenhouse on the property and many flowers, especially marigolds and roses. Pushkar would be a pleasant place for an extended stay in the winter months; Rohit told about people who have stayed in the next-door B&B as tourists for 8 or 10 years. Technically, it is only legal to stay here 6 months.

After breakfast, Pati and BeeBee took a tuk-tuk to the bottom of a hill, in order to climb to Savitri Temple. Savitri is the first wife of Brahma. Papmochari Temple, for Brahma's second wife, is farther away. Rohit said they should visit Savitri Temple, because the climb only takes one-half hour, instead of Papmochandri Temple, which requires a one-hour climb. Good choice. The climb to Savitri Temple took them one hour, with many stops to rest. The incline was at least 45 degrees as they neared the top. The climb begins and ends with concrete steps, but in between the path is made of large rocks set roughly as steps. Quite a few people were climbing, men and women, and many of those were elderly and barefoot. Many were chanting as they climbed, repeating the same phrase with every other step; perhaps it encouraged them. There were also goats and monkey families along the path (Pati wondered if the coffee bean sized "offerings" that covered the steps came from the monkeys or goats but didn't have time to wait and see.) Pati and BeeBee spent a few minutes at the top, visiting the temple and enjoying the breeze. The walk down took one half hour. The tuk-tuk driver who agreed to pick them up at 12:15 was gone by the time they got down at 12:30. (They saw him later in town.)

They then walked to the carnival to see the rides. Despite some misgivings, they bought tickets for one of the 4 very tall ferris wheels. They agreed to hold on tight every second and only take pictures when it was stopped and they were on the top. Finally enough people were on for it to start; Pati took pictures until then. The ride cost 30 rupees (about 50 cents US). After 12 revolutions, they expected the ride to end.. It didn't stop, so Pati began taking pictures on the move, but with both of them still holding on tight. After 24 revolutions, they were amazed at the good deal. At 34 revolutions, the car began to rock. BeeBee told Pati to stop it; he said it was the wind. At 38 revolutions, the car sped up and rocked. They were ready to get off! Finally, at 42 revolutions, their turn was up and they got off.

They then walked until they found the craft fair they couldn't find yesterday. There were some nice things there, but nothing they wanted. It was nearly deserted.

They then walked to the market and had lunch at the Rainbow Restaurant, where they had excellent seats overlooking the lake and ghats. The other patrons in the open air seating area where they were seemed to be mostly Americans on a tour together. The waiter, a pleasant young man, brought around treats for all the diners. Once it was a desert sample and the second time (for Pati and BeeBee only) a cool minty drink. As they finished their meal and he had cleared the table, he slipped Pati a  handwritten note in English: "If you like the service, please tip the waiter. Do not tip at the cashier." Pati and BeeBee had already totaled up the bill; it came to 780 rupees. Pati happily gave the young man a 100 rupee tip. At the cashier, the bill was 860 rupees. So the cashier got his tip anyway.

Leaving the restaurant, they shopped as they walked through the market and bought some hand-colored cards they will use as Christmas cards. Walking on toward the B&B, they encountered their earlier tuk-tuk driver who said he had come back for them at the foot of the hill. They explained their slowness, and since he already had a fare, they took another tuk-tuk back to the B&B.

Ferris Wheel (note Savitri Temple at top left)

Demon

Pushkar Camel Fair - Day 3

Sunday, 2 November 2014

Pati and BeeBee got up at 7 am and had breakfast in the terrace cafe, as usual. As they were heading out for the fair, their breakfast friend of the day before was checking out. He was headed for the train station and will get in to Agra at 9:30 tonight.  There he will immediately go to see the Taj Mahal in the light of the full moon. He had only a very small backpack on his back for his month-long trip through India.

Pati and BeeBee started out walking for the fairground and were soon picked up by a tuk-tuk, which made the trip much faster. By 10 am, they were seated at the top of the fairground stands on rickety plastic chairs, but in the shade.  The horse-dancing competition was scheduled for 11 am, and promptly at 11am, the awards ceremony for another India vs. the rest of the world competition was held. (No one would have come, otherwise.) The stands began to fill with all those people who are not willing to come early for seats and wait. Actually, the first people there were beggar women, who were stretched out asleep in the shade, with their laundry hanging on whatever was available, and their children out begging. (They target foreign women. The best begging ploy so far: tap the target on the knee and simply say "money.")

The horse dancing competition began just before 11:30. There were probably 8 competitors. BeeBee lost count while trying to maintain "her" space and still see the competition through people who stood up or leaned in front of people who had got there earlier. Although there really was not enough room, there were even people standing behind Pati and BeeBee, in danger of falling off the back of the stands. One woman in particular was American, with an Indian guide. She got there around 11 am and was impatient for the event to start. After the first horse, she was impatient for it to end. She left after the second horse. There was another group, possibly American, that swarmed onto the stands at about 11am, grabbing seats, and in general were obnoxious. At precisely noon, they all got up and left, blocking the view of those behind them. Their seats were promptly grabbed by Indians who had been standing, and others filled their vacuum, standing and leaning in. So it was difficult for Pati and BeeBee to see the performance of the last two or three horses. The horse dancing was probably very good (three horses used the same primitive trampolines as the camels yesterday), but they were just not as exciting after seeing the camels dance.

After the competition, Pati and BeeBee fought the crowds to go to Hard Rock Cafe for lunch. They were seated at a table with a young Danish girl, who has been doing volunteer work in India for a few months after graduating college. She had wanted to see the camel racing, but that is next Thursday, so she (and Pati and BeeBee) unfortunately will not see it.

After this, Pati and BeeBee fought the crowds again through the market to go find the craft fair that was to open at 3 pm today. They had high hopes that there would be good souvenir shopping there. They searched everywhere, and finally came upon a new set of stalls with several of them offering merchandise. Unfortunately, what is being offered is carnival- rather than craft-quality. Maybe something better will turn up tomorrow.

There are 4 huge ferris wheels here, along with other carnival rides. One ferris wheel is in operation today (for the first time), and Pati had looked forward to riding it to get great pictures from the top of the fair and the town. Today, Pati got his first good look at the passenger compartments: each is an enclosed compartment seating perhaps 4 not-too-big people, but with no safety bars, no seat belts, open to two sides and no doors.  Hummmm. Pati will think about this some more later.

Leaving the fair, they were soon overtaken by a tuk-tuk, which they gratefully climbed into, and arrived back at the B&B, where they climbed to the terrace cafe to consume 2 liters of cold water and a pot of black tea.

Horse Dancing

Pushkar Camel Fair - Day 2

Saturday, 1 November 2014

Pati and BeeBee got up a little later today (7 am) and headed up to the terrace cafe for the same breakfast as yesterday. There are 4 tables there, and when a guest arrived that would have required a 5th table, he asked to sit with them. He is Canadian and traveling alone. His wife, with whom he always travels ("we are trekkers"), got sick at the last minute, so he came alone. He is visiting most of the same places in India that Pati and BeeBee are, but this is the only place they will visit at the same time.

After breakfast, Pati and BeeBee took a tuk-tuk to the fairgrounds and settled in to wait for the first event, the camel beauty contest (how this was different from yesterday's camel beautification event, they never figured out). Camels who were clearly entered in the event were off to the side (as yesterday), but this time there was drumming and camels jumping! People crowded around, close to the camels (and close to the jumping!), making it hard to see exactly what was going on.

The beauty contest was scheduled for 11 am in a makeshift ring; just before 11:30, the 8 camels entered the ring one at a time with their drivers, each making a turn around the front of the ring before joining the others at the back. Each was then brought forward (some bowing) for the seated judges to view, and finally the 1st, 2nd, and 3rd place winners were announced. A camel with a blue cover on its hump was a clear crowd favorite and took one of the three prizes, but, not understanding Rajasthani, Pati and BeeBee do not know which prize. All the beauty contestants left the ring.

After a long pause, camels lined up to enter the ring for the second event: camel dancing. It is easier to suggest a YouTube search than to describe this phenomenom.  Before today, BeeBee would have said if you've seen one camel dance, you've seen them all. But the crowd-favorite blue-humped camel was one of the entrants, and after his choreography, which included dancing on primitive trampolines, there was a clear winner.

After this excitement, Pati and BeeBee had lunch at Honey and Spice, a health-food vegetarian restaurant. The food was good, if long in showing up.

They then went to the lake, intending to walk around it, but postponed the walk since shoes must be removed, and by that time, BeeBee's feet were very sore. Upon leaving, and trying to avoid the religious scammers, they were hailed by a familiar voice. It was the driver who had brought them to Pushkar. He is here with another group and will be leaving tomorrow. Unfortunately, he will not be their driver when they leave Pushkar.

Pati and BeeBee then walked back to their B&B and headed to the terrace cafe to rest and blog.

After a few hours of internetting and rest, they took a tuk-tuk back to the market and had a delicious dinner at the best restaurant they have found so far, Hard Rock Cafe. The waiter, Mango, is brother to the young man who makes the meals at the B&B, and told Pati and BeeBee to tell his brother "hi," which they did upon returning.  They would like to have breakfast some morning at Hard Rock Cafe; the breakfast menu is very tempting.

Pushkar Camel Fair -Day 1

Friday, 31 October 2014, Pushkar

Pati and BeeBee got up early this morning, eager to take in the first official day of the Pushkar Camel Fair. They had a breakfast of muesli, yogurt, and toast (how different from the previous hotels!) in the cool open-air rooftop terrace restaurant. Around the B&B are gardens, which at this time of year appear to be just dirt plots. The B&B manager told them that all the land around the B&B belongs to his grandfather, and that was the man in one of the gardens with a hoe. In fact, the family owns 6 hotels in Pushkar.

After breakfast, they set off on foot toward the fairgrounds. The roads and streets are paved, with lots of sand at the edges, and lots of what camels leave behind. Also lots of scam artists, trying to hand out flowers to be used for prayers at the lake (where the flowers mark just who can be hit up for $500 to $1000 USD for prayers for their family). Needless to say, Pati and BeeBee rejected all flowers.

Their way to the fair went through the market, streets crowded with pedestrians and vehicles, with all sorts of clothing, jewelry, metal and sandlewood artifacts, fabrics, and food to buy. They followed a map given to them by the B&B and eventually ended up at the fairgrounds, where many schoolgirls in colorful saris were performing a choreographed dance to music. The "fairgrounds" is really a large oval arena with stone seats on one of the long sides and one of the ends, and events that do not need all of the arena tend to happen near the sides with seating. Following the schoolgirls was a dancer performing to music produced by a line of drummers; there were two "guest" drummers who were clearly non-Indians pulled from the seated audience. Following this was a football (soccer) match played by a local team in uniforms vs. all foreign males who wanted to play, collectively call the "rest of the world" team. The rest of the world team scored first and went on to win the match; Pati and BeeBee suspected that perhaps the game was rigged. There were 4 players from the USA, and the rest were from France, the UK, Sweden, and other countries. While all this was going on, a camel beautification contest was also going on to the side. The owner of the most beautifully-decorated camel was crowned king; he mounted his camel and rode in front of the stands, holding a large ornate umbrella over his own head.

As there was a gap in entertainment, Pari and BeeBee went back to the market for lunch at the Laughing Budda, which was up a very steep set of stairs, and on a narrow projection from the second floor of a building. They had an excellent view of the people walking through the market below, and could analyze the behavior of the sellers. Across the street from them, at street level, was a shop prominently displaying bags of something that looked like fancy beans or rice on the left (Pati called them tictacs for their appearance and apparent size as he saw them from a distance) and cartons and packs of cigarettes on the right.  The shop keeper watched for Westerners: when they appeared, he called out to them about cigarettes. For Indians, he pushed the tictacs.

After lunch, Pati and BeeBee headed back to the B&B, intending to rest, but the B&B manager convinced them to return for the 6 pm candle lighting on the lake. The candles were really small clay bowls with a wick in oil, and thousands of them were set on the ghats (steps) all around the lake. It was a quite beautiful scene, with lights twinkling and reflecting in the lake. Tomorrow, Pati and BeeBee plan to return to the lake early and walk around it.

After this, they stopped for dinner at the Hard Rock Cafe (not THE Hard Rock Cafe but a restaurant owned by the extended family of the B&B where they are staying). The food was excellent; they plan to eat there again sometime.

Camels!