Showing posts with label Jodhpur. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Jodhpur. Show all posts

Wednesday, November 12, 2014

Jodhpur -Touring

Wednesday, 12 November 2014, Jodhpur

Pati and BeeBee started their full touring day at 10am. First they visited Jaswant Tara - the royal crematorium- and the massive fort above Jodhpur. The fort is the best preserved fort in India; it is part of the national trust and is supported by UNESCO, the US, and Germany. The guide rushed through the fort so quickly that Pati and BeeBee lost him a few times when they stopped to take pictures. However, the guide provided buying opportunities in the fort's gift shop (although he steered them to the expensive part of the shop and skipped the parts that, from a distance, looked interesting to BeeBee) and later in a jewelry store.  After this, they made a short stop at their hotel, where their guide left them after collecting a review and his tip.

Their driver then took them quite a few miles out of Jodhpur to meet up with their jeep safari. The first part of the safari was a bumpy ride along dirt tracks and through a dry river bed. It was like driving in deep snow. They visited a private home very similar to the one visited on the jeep safari at Manvar. There is no electricity at this home, except for that generated by a solar panel mounted on a short pole: the exclusive use of this solar power is to charge their cell phones. (Except for some very remote areas, all of India has excellent cell phone coverage - even in the sand dunes.) This family had five children. The older daughter, age 22, was married and living in the next village with her husband and new baby. The younger daughter, age 14 or 15, was also married but living at home still; she is not old enough to live with her husband as a wife. The custom in that area is to have many marriages at the same time, coinciding with some event when many people would be together anyway, such as a death in a family. Such gatherings are very expensive, because possibly a thousand people have to be fed for many days, so it is an economic decision to get as much out of an event as possible This girl knows who her husband is, but does not have regular interactions with him. Two other tourists, older American women, also showed up for this visit, along with the guide for the safari. They all had a very nice Indian lunch while they were there.  One of the other women "thrilled" the group by describing other vacations she had been on in the dim past. That was certainly more exciting than being on vacation in the present.

After lunch, the two groups went together to visit a town of a few thousand. At this town, the "mayor," a Brahmin, invited them to witness/participate in a local ritual. After this, the two women went with Pati and BeeBee's jeep driver back to their drop-off point, while the guide took Pati and BeeBee to a very small village. Here they were surrounded by every child in the village as they visited the carpenter and the shepherd's penned-up lambs (but not the shepherd). They saw the shepherd's wife (who provides school lunches every day) when she took a long stick to chase the children away.  They were led around by the head man of the village, who was accompanied hand-in-hand by his small grandson. Leaving the village, they looked for wildlife along the road, without any luck.  By the time they got back to their own driver (Deepak), they had traveled 60 kilometers (36 miles).

Before they started back to Jodhpur, they visited two craftsmen in a small area near where they had met the jeep safari.  The first craftsman was a potter, whose largest product is the water vessel they had just seen at the private home. This pot keeps water cool even in the hottest weather, through evaporation. He demonstrated making many clay items, using a 100 kg (220 pound) wheel that he propelled with a sharp piece of wood. Once he got the wheel up to speed, he could make many objects while momentum kept the wheel turning. He demonstrated the durability of  a pottery lamp by bouncing it off a concrete floor (or mud and cow dung floor - they look pretty much the same).

The second craftsman stamped patterns onto cloth, using natural products, including mud. He was actually selling products made by his village, because his village was too far away for tourists to visit easily. These craftsmen were more genuine than those in the city, because they actually demonstrated their craft.

The drive back to the hotel took about a half hour.  Pati and BeeBee had dinner in the hotel restaurant, and then stayed awake long enough for their laundry to be delivered back to them.

Jodhpur - Hotel Ratan Vilas

Wednesday, 12 November 2014, Jodhpur

The hotel Ratan Vilas in Jodhpur is very well laid out for finding your way around and has several nice courtyards for sitting and relaxing or eating. There is a fine water fountain on the entry walk.  The hotel also has a beautiful swimming pool, which Pati has been looking at longingly. Pati and BeeBee's room is large and comfortable. BeeBee said to Pati yesterday that this would be a wonderful place for a large family.  This morning they went to the restaurant (under a tent almost identical to the one at Manvar) for the buffet breakfast. While the meal was good, and the European-style items were filling, the Indian-style food in the covered pots was almost gone. Pati and BeeBee arrived during the early part of the breakfast period, and they have only seen European guests, so who ate all that food?

After breakfast, Pati went to test the temperature of the pool water. It was cool, and the outside temperature was cooler. The pool is beautiful, and there are dressing rooms and showers nearby. Pati will have to enjoy the sight rather than the actual swimming.

Walking back to their room, an elderly Indian gentleman seated on the veranda called out "namaste." They responded with the proper hand motion and "namaste."  As they climbed the steps, BeeBee asked how he was this morning. He was pleased to be asked, stood up and talked with them. He told them he is the owner of this hotel. His grandfather built it in the 1920s and he was born and raised here. He, a son, and a grandson still live here on the first floor. Given the history of this place, that means he is descended from Rajasthani royalty.

And, happily for BeeBee, she has turned in another load of laundry to be cleaned while she and Pati are out for a full day of touring.

Tuesday, November 11, 2014

Jodhpur - First Afternoon

Tuesday, 11 November 2014, Manvar and Jodhpur

Pati and BeeBee had a cold night in the tent at Manvar. Luckily, the bathroom was warmer than the bedroom when it was time to shower. At breakfast in the tent, many people came wearing sweatshirts and one woman even had one of those puffy winter jackets. Wimps. The Americans (Pati and BeeBee) and the British were comfortable enough in shirtsleeves. Pati and the Englishman were able to exchange photographs each took of the other pair riding the camels, using the wifi capability of their cameras.

At 9:50 am, the staff arrived to carry luggage to the truck that would take them to the main resort. It was almost no distance to get back, unlike the trip to the tents yesterday afternoon. The drivers for Pati and BeeBee and for the British couple were waiting, and so they went off in opposite directions, the British to Jaisalmer and the Americans to Jodhpur.

Pati and BeeBee arrived in Jodhpur just before noon and their driver dropped them at Ratan Vilas, promising to be back at 4 pm for the afternoon tour. The guide was not there to meet them, but showed up at 1:30 for the usual meet and greet. Pati and BeeBee had a quick lunch, then rested until 4 pm.

At 4pm, the driver dropped them and the guide in the market in the middle of town. They walked around, with the guide pointing out some of the old architecture, but mostly talking about textile crafts. He introduced them to some buying opportunities, and at the second such stop, the merchant was so dissatisfied with their 400 rupee ($6.40 USD) purchase that he turned off the fan and the lights  before the purchase was concluded.

Continuing their walk, they saw the clock tower, which was pretty and kept time. Leaving this, they climbed on the back of a carriage pulled by a horse. The driver and the guide faced forward, while Pati and BeeBee faced backward looking at traffic crowding behind them, on a much narrower seat. Pati got some good pictures. After some time riding inches from traffic without a good handhold on the carriage, BeeBee remarked to Pati, "Where is Deepak [their driver] when we need him? I bet he's right behind us." Pati looked up, and there was Deepak directly behind them in the car. Happy waves were exchanged. Deepak stayed behind the carriage as a buffer between them and the other traffic. After a few more minutes, the carriage stopped, and Pati and BeeBee (and the guide) rode in the car back to the hotel.

Now the reader may have realized by this time that Pati and BeeBee are very pleased with their driver. He will have been their driver for 13 days, having picked them up at the airport in Jaipur, and intending to drop them off at the airport in Udaipur. He has taught himself English, and improved his skills by interacting with those English-speakers that he drives around as an employee of the travel agency.  He is an excellent driver, friendly, conscientious, always there when he is needed.  Pati and BeeBee are not always pleased with their guides, especially when they try to provide buying opportunities (they get kickbacks). After Deepak dropped them off at the hotel, the guide stayed to query Pati and BeeBee about Deepak. "Is his English good," he wanted to know. They assured him that Deepak's communication skills were excellent. The guide has excellent English, and seemed to want to promote himself by disparaging others with lesser skill. Pati and BeeBee think that how they interact with their driver is none of the guide's business. They think that he must be Brahmin. (Jodhpur, the Blue City, is a Brahmin city.)  BeeBee expects that that they will get a lecture about caste tomorrow; every guide that has done this has also self-identified as Brahmin.

Being very full from lunch, Pati and BeeBee had only dessert (custard and fruit) for dinner before heading off for a much-needed night's rest.